January 2025
The Best Oyaki in Nagano at Ogawanosho – Nagano, Japan
We did not know about oyaki until we arrived in Nagano hungry at the train station. A quick Google search indicated that oyaki is a Nagano prefecture specialty that is basically their version of a dumpling. Typically the size of a fist, these dumplings are stuffed with local, seasonal produce – such as mushrooms, vegetables, and beans – and served either boiled, baked, or grilled. Since Nagano’s prefecture is known for buckwheat production to make items like soda noodles which we saw all over the area, it was no surprise to us that oyaki uses buckwheat flour in the dough.
On our last morning in Nagano, we stopped by Ogawanosho as I read it was a must try for oyaki. While we had tried oyaki while in Nagano, this shop seemed like ‘the’ place in Nagano to get them. Is oyaki a breakfast food? Unclear to us but they opened at 9AM so we decided at least for now, oyaki was a perfect breakfast item.
We were immediately greeted by an older woman – let’s call her, oyaki nonna – who eagerly sat us down and gestured to the back room which would be open soon. The front of the shop has grab-and-go oyaki as well as other goods for purchase. Half way through the store is a table and chairs where you can get hot, boiled oyaki and eat inside. And then there is the back room which we could only see a small window into but it looked like it was where the grilled oyaki is prepared.
The history of Ogawanosho dates back to 1986 in the small town of Ogawa located in the Nagano prefecture where oyaki production began. It has since grown into a large business that distributes oyaki all over and has a few different store fronts for people to find their products, one of which being located nearby Zenkōji Temple.
After a half hour, we were still the only ones there just enjoying ourselves and while we had confidence that we were not forgotten, it was then we learned that the room with the irori hearth where the grilled oyaki are freshly made does not open until 10AM. We definitely wanted to wait for the grilled oyaki so we waited just a little longer. The oyaki nonna gave us soba tea to try and Kevin instantly loved it, so much that we purchased a bag before leaving the store. Soba tea has many benefits as it is roasted from buckwheat including antioxidant, regulating blood sugar, and being a good source of fiber.
As oyaki nonna began to put out the markers indicating which type of oyaki were available today, we knew we were close and just a few minutes later we were ushered into the back room and seated right next to the irori hearth. Oyaki grandpa was busy over the irori hearth continuing to build a stock pile of freshly grilled oyaki. There was another woman to the side that was actively assembling oyaki with today’s fillings before they headed to the grill. We were tickled to have a front seat to this entire operation and still be the only ones here.
For our morning, there were three options available:
- Nozawana – Japanese leaf vegetable similar to turnip or mustard greens
- Unohana – soy pulp (okara) based filling with mushrooms, seaweed, and assorted vegetables
- Azuki – Japanese red bean
We definitely wanted to sample them all so we started with one of each and we were unexpectedly blown away by the unohana – so much so that we ordered a few more just of that one. It reminded us of potato filling like perogies and had such a great savory flavor. They were all excellent and we loved the grilled oyaki. The overall experience was so fun – I can understand why it is so popular and can imagine the wait can be quite crazy for the delicious grilled goodness.
I would definitely recommend coming early as we had no issues with waiting and enjoyed the hospitality of the staff. The irori hearth room has limited hours from the store front so make sure to check if you are visiting and want to sit with the grill. The fillings change daily so have an open mind I would recommend trying all of them to sample as we had no idea that the soy oyaki would end up being our favorite. You also have to pay with each order so it will help to speed up your transaction by ordering a few at a time instead of one at a time.
When visiting Nagano – even if it is for a day trip – definitely plan on visiting Ogawanosho for a snack or full meal to enjoy their oyaki. You can even take them to-go as a Shinkansen treat. It is conveniently located near the tourist destination of Zenkōji Temple so it makes for an easy stop.