January 2025
A Stay at Jizokan Matsuya Ryokan – Nagano, Japan
Since we booked this trip relatively ‘last minute’ when it comes to Japan planning and we were traveling to a destination that is not as tourist centric, we booked hotels for this trip as the Airbnb market was practically non-existent. Because there are so many hotels, I tried to keep my search simple by focusing on location, reviews, and price then I booked everything on Booking.com. For Nagano, I wanted to be close to the train station and close to the center of the attractions and since Nagano is larger, it was tough to meet both. However, the bus network is very robust here so we opted to go with a more traditional Japanese stay at a ryokan. I found Jizokan Matsuya Ryokan which was very well rated and at a very affordable price at just over $100 a night during our off-season traveling.
I have a full post on what the expect when staying at a ryokan since it will be different than a traditional hotel or Airbnb stay. Basics of a ryokan include:
- The room is outfitted traditional tatami-mat and serves both as your place to seat and converts into your place to sleep on floor futons.
- Your shoes remain at the entrance of the ryokan for your entire stay in exchange for slippers.
- Yukata robes – similar to kimono robes but more casual – are provided to wear for your stay.
- Onsens (natural hot springs) are onsite and depending on the ryokan, you may have a private one, a public one, or even both.
- Food is served kaiseki style and is included in the price of the stay, and it typically includes dinner the night of your check-in and breakfast the following morning.
The Property
Jizokan Matsuya Ryokan is an easy and direct bus ride from Nagano train station and about a half hour walk, which may be too long with your luggage. There are no cars permitted directly on the road where the ryokan is located right on Zenkōji Nakamise Street within the temple grounds but it is a very close walk from the bus stop or the last point where a car can be driven. Honestly this easily could have been missed as an accommodation as it looks like a shrine. And while the property is true to the 100 plus year history, this family owned ryokan has updated amenities and comforts. The staff are very welcoming and willing to help in any way they can to make your stay comfortable.
The Rooms
There are a few different room offerings at Jizokan Matsuya Ryokan. Since we were staying multiple nights and had previously experienced a ryokan stay with tatami-mat, we opted for a room with western style beds so make sure to select the experience you want when booking. The room we stayed in was very spacious and had a toilet room separate from the shower room which was a great touch. There was also in-room tea service and free coffee at the front of the ryokan as well. Yukata robes are provided in each room and I could not wait to change into – they are so darn comfortable. Overall, we were very pleased with the room and accommodation.
The Amenities
Ryokan stays have a nice set of amenities to enjoy during the stay. Each room is provided yukata robes and slippers which can be used at any point. The onsen, or public bath, is the highlight. The provided robes are used when visiting the onsen and there is a set bath for females and males separately. And there are showers and bathroom spaces there with premium amenities. The hours of the onsen are 7:00am – 9:00am then 4:00pm – 10:00PM. We certainly took advantage of the jet lag by taking advantage of the opening hours when no one else was awake.
A note on onsen etiquette:
- The thing that throws most tourists off is that onsens are nude – there are no bathing suits allowed. For this reason, many seek out the private onsen option. Funny enough, during our ryokan stay this meant the public onsens were empty and doubled like a private experience. But know this is very normal so do not pack a bathing suit for this purpose.
- Before going into the hot spring, you need to rinse off beforehand. There is typically a room before the onsen where this occurs or a dedicated space in the onsen itself where you can shower with soap prior to taking a dip.
- There is a bit of a taboo around tattoos as tattoos were associated with Japanese gangs so it is not uncommon for ryokans to ban those with tattoos from bathing. If you have tattoos and wish to have the onsen experience, check beforehand that they allow for tattoo’ed individuals to bath.
- Onsens are not “party” atmospheres but a place of tranquility and respect so it is best to refrain from drinking while soaking. Also, the hot springs are HOT so it is not a great combo to be drinking and bathing.
Dining Options
Ryokan stays traditionally offer breakfast and dinner kaiseki style. Kaiseki is a multi course meal that is often referred to as “haute” cuisine so it is typically a higher end meal that is more than just the food but the entire experience. Each dish is a piece of art both by the quality of ingredients, how they are situated on the plate, the plate itself, and even the dish’s orientation on the table. Kaiseki is a series of small dishes in multiple courses so do not be fooled by the small portions in the beginning of the meal – it all adds up to an enormous amount of food. And a kaiseki meal varies by what is fresh that day and especially by what is in season as it was common to see menus as “seasonal” when I was researching to ensure “shun-no-mono” – the best and freshest ingredients to give a high quality meal. The meal typically includes vegetables, different types of seafood, meats, miso soup, rice, and something for dessert like fruit.
Jizokan Matsuya Ryokan also offers kaiseki style meals for breakfast and dinner. There is a communal dining room where meals take place or you can have the meal in your room as well. We did not experience breakfast but we did enjoy a dinner on our check-in day which was a great idea. Everything we had was delicious and we were completely stuffed at the end.
Things to Do
There is plenty to do in Nagano! Make sure to have some time to treat yourself to the hotel onsen on your Nagano stay while exploring as well.
- Grab a snack or meal along Zenkōji Nakamise Street or Zenkoji Omotesando
- Visit the famous Snow Monkeys at Jigokudani Monkey Park
- Explore the Zenkōji Temple grounds and attending a morning service
- Take a day trip to neighboring areas such as Mount Togakushi, Obuse, or Matsumoto
Final Thoughts
Overall, we were very impressed with our stay at Jizokan Matsuya Ryokan! It was simple, modern, clean, centrally located, a great value, and just what we were looking for during our stay in Nagano. I would highly recommend Jizokan Matsuya Ryokan for accommodations when visiting Nagano!